Unravelling tailoring history. part 3- 1990

Looking at the 1990s

Less became more. The art of minimalism was much appreciated in the 90s. It had become apparant that the silhouette had become neater as shoulder pads finally died and the execssive flashy jewelry has been taken away.

The only real glitz in the 1980s, was probably the subtle but new iridescent shimmer on sheer fabrics that went through the skin make up and hair spray.

Sometimes a major silhouette would be associated with a decade.

The 1990s, began with short fitted jackets. One of the first new different silhouette was the 1991-2 fingertip length straghter, longer line narrower jacket. It was occasionally worn over a knee length skirt, or pleated skirts.

Unravelling tailoring history.part 2-1980s

1980s power tailoring
Moving into the 1980s, a trend of power shoulders made its way back into the fashion light.

It was a time of change, the creation of MTV revolutionized the fashion industry.

Looking for ways to express themselves, the 1980s was filled with individual unique fashion.

Shoulder pads were more widely seen in this decade than probably any other.

For woman, it was an era of change, an era in which outfits portrayed masculinity. Vogue covers of the decade, presented less feminine women, and it was definitley a decade where male-inspired female empowered.

In contrast to the 1970s, the 1980s was a time where formality was encouraged.

The 1980s witness a return of an appreciation for class shapes and straight leg trousers, in comparison to the popular flared pants of the last decade. The trend of fat ties of the 1970s slowly transitioned into slimmer ties, and patterns also became more subtle and classic

The shirts no longer had large collars, and again introduced the cutaway collar, one of the most famous formal. Being the look of tailoring back to chic, classic and ever ageless.

Unravelling tailoring history. part 1-1970s

1970s

Beginning from the 1970s, tailoring history has changed significantly over the decades.

Continuing from where the 60s left off. The 70s was a decade filled with freedom of dress.

Although suits were not commonly seen on the streets on men, a formal suit was still required at dinner parties.

Compared to the 60s, the 70s was seen as a more relaxed decade.

Focusing more on tailoring in the 1970s, the art of bespoke tailoring was under an increasing threat from the rising popularity of Ready-to-wear garments. The 1970s was probably considered the last decade where bespoke tailoring led the fashionable cut such as creating the look with dramatically wide lapels. Most probably the most renown development was the style of the lounge coat, with its two button coat and long lapels.

The popular fashion of the lounge coat is still widely seen in today's fashion, making it a lasting legacy of the 1970s. Tailored jackets were generally clean cut and close to chest, shoulder and waist; with fairly wide lapels.

　　　Rag & Bone Fall 2010 Menswear Collection

　　　　　　　　　Rag & Bone 2010 RTW

　

　

I recently really interested in Rag & Bone's collection.

Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are the designers, they just starting the show since 2008.

In Rag & Bone's collection, they usually uses mono tone like light grey, dark grey, warm grey, ash, black, beige and white..very modern and natural chic. When I think about tailored jacket, I always thought very restrictive, business cloth, granddad's outfit and all about adult thing. But from last year boy friends jacket was fashion, boxy style and many loose fit jacket came out so now many girls wearing men's jacket and its more familiar now. Rag & Bone's collection helped me to broke my stereotype. I like the way they shows very unique and creative mix and match style. They mixed tailored jacket with heavy sweater, uses wool fabric to make padding jumper, all tailored jacket's are can be very casual or well dressed and very unique style. One of my favorite design is women's double tailored jacket wear like a cape or can be wear sperate.

Audrey Hepburn-La Princesa que quería vivir (Vacaciones en Roma) (12/12)

Mark Powell

Bespoke Tailor

　　　

Mark Powell is one of London's most iconic and influential bespoke tailors. Renowned for his nostalgically and classically inspired tailoring, combined with experimental cuts and styling, he was one of the first to successfully bridge the gap between the traditions of Savile Row and contemporary street style. Drawing style and influence from his 20 years experience in bespoke tailoring, in 2006 he launched his ready to wear line, Mark Powell London.

Over the years he has dressed countless celebrities from the worlds of film, television, music and sport including George Clooney, Harrison Ford, Mick and Bianca Jagger, David Bowie, George Michael, Bryan Ferry, Naomi Campbell, Usher, Frank Lampard, Darren Clarke, Scary Spice, Daniel Radcliffe, Take That, Kevin Rowland, Morrissey, Goldie, Ian Wright, The Pet Shop Boys, Keith Flint from The Prodigy, The Killers and, most recently, film director Joe Wright and actors Keira Knightley, Rupert Friend, Martin Freeman and John Hannah.

He has featured in magazines such as Esquire, Arena, GQ and L'Uomo Vogue and in books such as The Look, The New English Dandy and The Best of British Men. He had a starring role in the BBC documentary series Soho Stories and has appeared on television numerous other times as a fashion and style pundit. He has designed costumes for the British films Absolute Beginners, Shopping and Gangster No.1. His work has been featured at London's Victoria and Albert museum, in the British Fashion Council's world touring 21st Century Dandy exhibition and last year he was part of The London Cut Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring exhibition at the Palazzo Pitti in Florence.He has held fashion shows with the DTI in Moscow, Vietnam, Vienna and the Philippines as well as in London during Fashion Week. He collaborated on a menswear range for PPQ and he is also now in his second season designing the Mark Powell Autograph range for Marks and Spencer.

http://www.markpowellbespoke.co.uk/

DJ TAILORING

"DJ TAILORING" is custom tailoring service shop. They arrange an appointment to see the clients and discuss the fabrics, what style they want then measure. After 4-5 weeks the first fitting is ready they go back and try the suit fitting on the client to ensure it fits well and do the adjustment. It takes same length of time to do the final fitting.

"http://www.djtailoring.co.uk/flashgot/flashgot.html"

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2011

Burberry Prosum Fall 2010

MILAN, June 19, 2010

By Tim Blanks

Christopher Bailey's trip to the Burberry archives last season helped him to the best men's collection of his career with the company, and he hit pay dirt again with Spring's return visit. A stash of early twentieth-century biker gear designed by the very forward-thinking Thomas Burberry gave him the idea for his "heritage biker" collection. It was another spectacular outing.

Bailey may have made his rep with collections that leaned toward wistful melancholia, but the harder he goes, the better the clothes seem to get. Fall's precise military-influenced tailoring was still obvious in khaki trenches and naval officer's coats, but here they'd been given details like leather epaulettes and studded belts. The biker influence loomed in vests, coats, pants, and jackets, the last one out especially lethal with its stretch of spiked studs. To temper the toughness, Bailey paired a biker vest with jersey pants, motocross leathers with a luxe suede trench, and a sheer safari shirt with a studded vest. That balance between boyish vulnerability and male strength is quintessential Bailey.

He also showed studded or domed gilets that he claimed were a direct line from Thomas. They looked like something from the Middle Ages, and so did the studded hybrids of gladiator sandals and Birkenstocks the models wore on their feet. You could picture Bailey's boy warriors marching out to take on the world to the angry-young-man sound of the Animals that accompanied the show. One caveat: Come spring, they'll get hot in all that hide.

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2011MEN-BURBERRY